Snaring is an easy and inexpensive way to trap. Snares are light weight, require less equipment and, in many situations, can be set in locations where other traps can not. Many snare sets can be made faster than other trap sets saving you time.
Often the only equipment you need to make a snare set is the snare itself. Other equipment you will use are wire cutters, pliers, a roll of support wire, tie wire , a sharp knife for cutting twigs, branches etc., ground stakes and stake swivels. Don't forget the note book and pencil!
A good quality snare will yield good results while a poorly made snare will just waste your time. Use the right size snare for the right set. A couple dozen snares are compact and light weight so you can travel light saving you time and energy. They are also fast and easy to set. (return)
Snares normally need preparation before use. It is always wise to check the snare for a possible defect before you prepare it. Check for a broken wire strand, insecure fasteners such as ferrules, etc. If your snare is a "Release" type snare DO NOT alter the ferrule! It usually isn't necessary to dye and wax snares (Thompson Snares) even though some prefer to do this. If your prefer to remove the light coat of manufacturing oil on the snare you can soak them in a baking soda solution of a half an hour and dry them but this is also not necessary. You can also dye your snares in log wood chips. DO NOT use LYE on snares as it will destroy the aluminum ferrules on the snares!
Pre setting (Loading) the snare.PRE setting (or loading) a snare must be done to create a good round noose shape. An animal will not go into a "tear drop" loop shape and it stands out like a red flag.
Figure A shows the shape the snare has when it leaves the factory.
Figure B shows a simple wire bend (arrow) at the lock that will allow the wire to slip easily through the lock but will not hamper the locking device in any way. To load the snare, simply take a nail or screwdriver and run it along the inside of the loop as shown. By doing these two things you will have the fastest acting snare and it will retain a nice round loop when set. CAUTION: When doing this to our very small wire #00 (1/32" dia) use very little pressure or you can destroy the wire. This wire has a thin nylon coating.
Figure C shows a popular way to hang the No. l S40" or No. l-TS60" for snaring fox. On closing the snare the lock swivels around to the proper position for locking. This may work for other sizes as well. Experiment with your snares.
SETTING SNARES
One of the most important aspects of setting snares is TAKING NOTES. If you don't take notes it will be very difficult to understand why one set worked and another one did not. Notes on location, weather, terrain, set dimensions, ground conditions, and anything dealing with sight, distances etc.
When setting your snare it is best to place the neck lock at the top so when the lock closes it will end up on the back of the neck. If the neck lock ends up on the side of the neck the animal may end up with the snare cable in its mouth will chew it, wire by wire, in short order. This also lets the neck lock to work best. In some sets (such as dig outs under a fence) this may not be the best choice.
LOOP SIZE and POSITION: One of the most common problems with snares is in "body catches". Snares were never designed for this and a "body catch" can cause "ring marks" that reduce the value of fur. Body catches are usually caused by a noose set too large. (if you set a snare for a coyote and end up with a bobcat, it's usually a body catch). There are no "set in stone" dimensions for snare loop size or distances from solid ground. This is because fur critters vary in size from state to state. Imagine setting a snare for a 100 lb. coyote in Alaska the same as for a "large" 30 lb. coyote in Kansas. There is a GENERAL RULE OF THUMB as a starting point. Decide what the fur bearers stride is (front paw to front paw) and make your snare loop two to three inches larger in diameter. A 9 inch stride will give a loop size of 11 - 12 inches. The bottom of the loop is placed 2 - 3 inches less distance from solid ground ( 9-10 inches from solid ground). This is a basic starting point for most fur bearers. The snare should be placed in the center of a trail or run and positioned vertically and horizontally to the path.
SUPPORT and STAKES: The most common method of supporting a snare is with support wire "pig tails". These are usually made with 9 gauge galvanized wire. You can buy them or buy a roll of 9 gauge wire (cheep) and make your own. The support is essentially shaped like a "7" and secured to the stake ( such as 3/8" or 1/2" rebar) and the stake is driven into the ground at the appropriate location. The snare is attached to the top of the support in many different ways. Most snares have small collars or washers used to slip over the tip of the support. Once this is done you need to adjust the position and diameter of the snare loop with the aid of the support. You can add additional support to the snare cable on the top of the support with a small clip like "hair pins" or paper clips shaped to form a small "S" shape. Don't use tape or anything that will pull the support along with the snare!